Our family has a very special ceremony that takes place every year around this time. We make that final tomato harvest before the first big freeze, and we pile the countertops high with bowls of tomatoes in every shade of green, yellow, orange, and red. A few of them tumble out of the bowls, roll eagerly across the counter and fall to the floor with a splat. It’s Ruby’s job to dispose of the splatted tomatoes. Her preferred method is to eat them.
The day after the harvest, the first day of the cold front, is when we make tomato soup.